San Diego Comic Con Sidequest…

During our recent annual trek to San Diego Comic Con, our hotel was located in the Little Italy area of downtown San Diego, a few blocks from the San Diego Maritime Museum. On the day of our arrival, I walked down to the shipboard museum, which is centered aboard the steam ferry Berkeley, with several ships to tour at your own discretion. On that first walk over, I took photos of the ships, and I knew I’d have to buy a ticket. I caught a case of “Sea Fever,” as quoted below from the poem by John Masefield (1878-1967)…

“I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,

And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by;

And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking,

And a grey mist on the sea’s face, and a grey dawn breaking.

I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide

Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied;

And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying,

And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.

I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life,

To the gull’s way and the whale’s way where the wind’s like a whetted knife;

And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover,

And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.”

Docked at the museum was the 1863 iron sailing ship, Star of India (formerly the Euterpe), as well as the 18th century replica frigate HMS Surprise, which was the hero ship used in the 2003 movie “Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World,” starring Russell Crowe and Paul Bettany. Also docked at the museum’s hub were the 1968 research submarine USS Dolphin, a US Navy PT Swift boat, a perfect replica of the 16th century Spanish galleon, San Salvador, and several other antique vessels, including the 1904 steamer yacht, Medea.

During a lull in this year’s rather ho-hum San Diego Comic Con, I left the convention a bit early, and went back to buy a ticket for the Maritime Museum. And I’m really glad I did.

The Star of India (nee: Euterpe)

From the museum’s webpage:

Star of India, the world’s oldest active sailing ship. She began her life on the stocks at Ramsey Shipyard in the Isle of Man in 1863. Iron ships were experiments of sorts then, with most vessels still being built of wood. Within five months of laying her keel, the ship was launched into her element. She bore the name Euterpe, after the Greek muse of music and poetry.

Euterpe was a full-rigged ship and would remain so until 1901, when the Alaska Packers Association rigged her down to a barque, her present rig. She began her sailing life with two near-disastrous voyages to India. On her first trip she suffered a collision and a mutiny. On her second trip, a cyclone caught Euterpe in the Bay of Bengal, and with her topmasts cut away, she barely made port. Shortly afterward, her first captain died on board and was buried at sea.

After such a hard luck beginning, Euterpe settled down and made four more voyages to India as a cargo ship. In 1871 she was purchased by the Shaw Savill line of London and embarked on a quarter century of hauling emigrants to New Zealand, sometimes also touching Australia, California and Chile. She made 21 circumnavigations in this service, some of them lasting up to a year. It was rugged voyaging, with the little iron ship battling through terrific gales, “laboring and rolling in a most distressing manner,” according to her log.

The life aboard was especially hard on the emigrants cooped up in her ‘tween deck, fed a diet of hardtack and salt junk, subject to mal-de-mer and a host of other ills. It is astonishing that their death rate was so low. They were a tough lot, however, drawn from the working classes of England, Ireland and Scotland, and most went on to prosper in New Zealand.

The HMS Surprise

Ever since buying the film on DVD back in 2004 or so, “Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World” (2003) quickly became one of my favorite nautical movies; an early 19th century answer to “The Hunt for Red October” (1990). Directed by Peter Weir (“Witness”) and based on the book series by Patrick O’Brian, the movie sees the British frigate HMS Surprise, under the command of Captain “Lucky Jack” Aubrey (Russell Crowe) playing cat-and-mouse with a French warship on unforgiving seas. Their voyage includes a brief layover at the gorgeous Galapagos Islands in order to save Capt. Aubrey’s injured ship’s surgeon (and best friend) Stephen Maturin (Paul Bettany), and to indulge the recovering scientist’s curiosity.

The movie is based on the “Master and Commander” book series by Patrick O’Brian, and has been half-kiddingly referred to as one of the best Star Trek movies never made, with the pursuit of the French warship feeling similar to Kirk’s pursuit of the cloaked Romulan warship in “Balance of Terror,” while the cataloguing of exotic, previously unseen Galapagos wildlife feels like a classic landing party scenario from that series. The relationship between Captain Aubrey and Stephen is very similar to that of Capt. Kirk and Dr. McCoy, though Maturin has more of Mr. Spock’s insatiable curiosity. And like the starship Enterprise, the HMS Surprise is as much a character in the movie as its human occupants.

Sadly, the HMS Surprise will be removed from the museum on August 1st, 2027, so I would advise prospective visitors to book your tour ASAP (details on the bottom of this column). From the museum’s webpage:

Since 2004, HMS Surprise—the renowned 18th-century replica frigate—has been an iconic part of the Maritime Museum of San Diego’s historic fleet. Originally launched as HMS Rose, the vessel served for decades as a training vessel before being transformed into HMS Surprise for the Academy Award-winning film Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World. She later appeared in Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides, further cementing her place in maritime and cinematic history.

For more than two decades, the Museum has invested substantial resources in preserving, restoring, and maintaining HMS Surpriseas an important component of its collection. During that time, the ship has inspired countless visitors, students, volunteers, and supporters, helping bring the stories of seafaring history to life.

Following an extensive professional assessment conducted by a certified marine surveyor, and after careful deliberation by the Museum’s Board of Directors and leadership team, the Museum has concluded that retaining HMS Surprise in its fleet is no longer financially viable. The significant investment required to restore the vessel to the standard deserved by visitors, crew, and community would substantially impact the Museum’s ability to care for the remainder of its collection and fulfill its broader educational mission. As a result, HMS Surprise will permanently close to visitors on August 1, 2027.

This decision is final and the Museum will not pursue a fundraising campaign to reverse it.

While this marks the end of an important chapter, the Museum is committed to honoring and celebrating the ship’s remarkable legacy over the coming year. Staff are actively exploring options for HMS Surprise‘s future, including potential opportunities within the entertainment industry and other possible paths forward.

The Museum will share additional updates as they become available and extend its sincere gratitude to everyone who has supported and cherished HMS Surprise throughout her remarkable journey.

I’ve also included screenshots from “Master and Commander” in several collage-comparisons with my own photos:

Other Ships of Interest

Other ships docked around the steamer ferry Berkeley included the 1968 research submarine USS Dolphin, the PCF-18 attack boat (available for short cruises), the 1904 steamer yacht Medea, and a historically accurate replica of the 16th century Spanish galleon, San Salvador. For each, I’ll include passages from the museum’s website here and there, which detail each of these ships’ histories in greater context than I ever could.

USS Dolphin set records in deep-sea exploration, launching the deepest-fired torpedo and conducting groundbreaking naval and scientific research throughout her nearly 40-year career.

PCF 816 Swift Boat, a Vietnam-era Patrol Craft Fast, now offers visitors an immersive experience at the Maritime Museum of San Diego, honoring those who served in the U.S. and Malta.USS Dolphin set records in deep-sea exploration, launching the deepest-fired torpedo and conducting groundbreaking naval and scientific research throughout her nearly 40-year career.

Medea, a 1904 steam yacht with a storied past in both world wars, is now preserved at the Maritime Museum of San Diego, offering visitors a glimpse into the golden age of steam yachting.

San Salvador, a replica of the first European vessel to reach America’s West Coast, brings history to life as a sailing museum and educational platform along California’s shores.

The Museum’s Hub; the Berkeley

Berkeley, a National Historic Landmark and 1898 steam ferry, played a vital role in San Francisco Bay for 60 years and now serves as a museum centerpiece with exhibits and restored machinery.

For a pittance of an admission price, visitors have full access to the museum from the ferry Berkeley, with optional visits to each ship one chooses. I personally enjoyed this largely unsupervised tour, which allowed me to take it in at my own pace; that’s my favorite kind of museum. With so many points of interest for would-be oceanic explorers, this is a nautical but nice way to spend an afternoon at the high seas from the relative safety of port. Whether going with family, friends or even solo, the San Diego Maritime Museum makes a wonderful palliative for a raging case of “Sea Fear,” but you can keep the cure, thanks.

All 104 of my San Diego Maritime Museum photos can be found here in this link. Enjoy!

Buy a ticket and come aboard

The Maritime Museum of San Diego is located in the Little Italy area of San Diego, along the harbor, at 1492 North Harbor Drive, San Diego, CA 92101. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm daily, with $25 standard admission (senior admission is $20, kids 6-17 are $15, while kids under 6 visit free–there’s also Free Kids Month in October). Their phone number is 1 (619) 234-9153, and their site is sdmaritime.org. While tours are largely unsupervised, assistance can be requested if needed.